If you choose an electric or orbital sander for light sanding, you should be careful to sanding several steps and not sanding the thin outer layer of plywood. Since softwood layers are often what many DIY enthusiasts use, you should consider sand on the thinner outer layers of the plywood, as well as sand with a sander.
Start with low grain, such as 150, and stain the sand side, right down to the final grinding, for example, 180 - 220. It is a good policy to grind with scourers when applying a stain, as this will make the stain more easily dirty.
When sanding on a flat surface, use the flat block to secure the sandpaper and advance to the next finer grain. Remove the sanding dust by using the same sanding paper you used in the last machine sanding. The most efficient way is to use one or more grains, which can be used to sand a little longer. If you use one of the three sanding methods, you can also remove sand from the surface of your surface with a sander.
Before the finish is applied, the project should be sanded with sandpaper in grain 150 to 180 for finishing and with a 1 / 4 inch to a 1.5-inch thick piece of paper for finishing.
Be careful when sanding with an electric sander, as the plywood veneer layer is quite thin so that the lower layers can be sanded easily without realizing what is happening. Keep the sand in line with the wood grain in the direction in which you are applying sand, to avoid visible scars on the grain. When you are finished sanding, wipe the dust with damp cloths and let the workpiece dry.
Examine the workpiece and decide what you think is necessary, and when you find it within reach, grind as much as you need. If the color you used has a lot of shine, the surface may need to polish up a little color, so hit it again.
Next, the top edge is sanded with a sanding block, where it meets the plywood edge trimming saw hit by the plywood. Most of the parts I have built with laminated wood have a face frame that covers the edge, but not all do it.
I sand both the plywood side and the edge with an 80% sanding pad, so I sanding the veneer on pretty much every surface of the tabletop. There is actually a bit of a rounded edge that you can get if you don't look for it, and I didn't feel it could peel off at all. On the bottom, where I left some excess thickness of the veneer, I used a sanding block The sides of the wood and the edges are sand-blasted.
It was sanded a lot to get the shine I wanted in the end, but it was worth it for the look of the tabletop.
The moisture from the sealer increased the grain of the wood so it felt rough again, so I wiped it clean with a cloth. Then it was time to try out the iron veneer, but this time in a different way than the previous sanding method.
Sealing is not difficult, but you need to apply more stains to the plywood. A good option is to test the sealer on an additional piece of laminated wood and apply the stain to see what the finished result will look like. Although the process may seem tedious when you do the footwork of filling and sanding, your finished product can look much better.
Speaking of painting, the choice of materials is much easier than with stains and varnishes, as the color of the filler does not have to match the colors of your wood.
For the sake of discussion, we assume that all furniture for use in your home is made of plywood. If you want to use wood that you don't use, like wood from a hardware store, you must assume that your project will be made of lumber instead.
Dry construction sludge is an especially good surface filler if you use C or D construction plywood and want a smooth surface. Even inexpensive construction plywood can look great with a little mud on it. Skim the entire surface with a wide drywall blade (10 - 12 '' ') while trying to finish the drywall.
Let the sludge dry completely and then sand it with 120-grain sandpaper with a 1 / 4 '' wide drywall knife (10 - 12 '' ').
If you need a coat, especially in bad areas, apply it and let it dry before sanding it again. Remember that the wood filler you use will shrink when it dries, so sanding it again if necessary.
In some cases, you should sand each layer with 120-grit sandpaper before applying the second layer on a smooth, even surface. Be sure to sand and fill the ends of the board, as the boards are often rough and most plywood boards have cavities.