To guide a board through a planer with a blunt knife requires coarse grit, as does veneer, and that's what you're going to run.
For example, you can finish the surface with 180 grit, but you can also start with a coarse grain of 1.5 to 2.0 grit. You don't want to start with grit that is too coarse because you want to grind off scratches, and it would be a total waste of time and energy to do that. But you would risk grinding off a scratch, so you could start a little coarser, or even a little less coarse, than you would like.
You examine your workpiece and decide what you think is necessary and whether you can find it within reach. If the color you used has so much shine, the surface may need a little color, so hit it again.
Most pieces made of plywood have a front frame that covers the edges. If this is the case, you can sand these edges to chip off the increased grain.
If the plywood edge trimming saw edges are pitted, a wood filler will help, but smooth them out with plastic putty or a knife. Once the wood fillers have dried, a light sanding should be sufficient to obtain a smooth plywood edge.
Remember that the wood fillers you use will shrink when they dry, so grind them down as best you can.
Be sure to sand and fill the ends of the board, as the boards are often rough and most plywood boards have cavities. In this case, you should sand each layer with 120-grit sandpaper before applying the second layer on a smooth, even surface.
This also allows you to fill the ends of the grain to create a smooth surface for painting. Dry construction sludge is particularly suitable as a surface filler if you use C or D construction plywood and want a smoother surface. Skim the entire surface with a wide drywall knife (10 - 12 '' ') before trying to finish the drywall.
If you need a coat of paint, especially in bad areas, apply it and let it dry and sand and reapply. Rub off the sludge with 120-grit sandpaper, let it dry completely and then sanding it off again with a wide drywall knife (10 - 12 '' ').
For example, the last grains (180 - 220) with 180 grits and then the 220 grits with a wide drywall blade (10 - 12 '' ') are achieved. If you apply a stain, it is probably a good policy to sand the snippets first before applying the stain.
When sanding on a flat surface, use flat blocks to secure the sandpaper and advance to the next finer sandpaper. If you sand a little longer, you can use one or finer grain, but it is most efficient to use the same grain of sandpaper that you used for the last machine sanding. If you use one of the three sanding methods, you can remove the sanding dust by using one or two grits or even two or three.
To remove material from the surface, the sander moves a piece of sandpaper or abrasive quickly, often in a circular motion, between pieces of wood.
Electrical sanders can be used for tasks in many industries, including woodworking and body repair. An orbital sander uses special grinding wheels, while a sheet sander uses sheet metal sandpaper as an abrasive. These discs tend to cost more than normal sandpaper and come in multiple grains.
Attach 120-grit sandpaper to the sanding force of your sander and gently sand the surface of the outer plywood. The grains are maintained by humidifying the wood surface, which makes sanding easier.
Then wipe the surface of the wood with a damp cloth and sand again, this time with 120-grit sandpaper and a damp cloth.
They usually use fine sandpaper and strive to achieve a smooth wood surface to obtain a fine-looking wood - ready when you apply topcoat. You should notice that the wood increases as the grain is painted, as well as the sanding with primer before. Sanding without primer ensures that the finish is vibrant and not dull when applying paint or topcoat, so that it appears lively and not dull.
The appearance and feel of the surface are taken alone and have nothing to do with how finely the wood is sanded, if at all. Oil paint mixtures and surfaces have no measurable structure, while rough sanding prevails, leading to roughness in the wood. The finish can be made smoother by sanding the additional layer while it is still wet on the surface with grain sandpaper from 400 to 600 after the hardening process.
It's not enough just to feel the wood and look nonchalantly and think, "Oh, that's probably good enough. That's much easier than grinding it to 400 or 600 grits, but it's worth it, I think.