To apply the finish, the project should be sanded with sandpaper in grain 150 to 180 before finishing. Be careful when sanding with an electric sander, because if you sanding the plywood veneer layer, it is easy to sand the bottom layer without realizing what is happening. Keep your sand in line with the wood grain, sand in all directions to avoid visible scars in the grain.
I recommend using 80 grit sandpaper for this work, having a staple cloth handy facilitates the removal of dust and dirt caused by the sand. When you are finished sanding, wipe the dust with a damp cloth and let the workpiece dry. After you have cleared the sandy mess, you can proceed to step 2 of the process.
If you choose a powered orbital sander for light sanding, you should be careful not to sand past the thin outer layer of plywood. Since softwood layers are often what many do-it-yourselfers use, you should consider sanding in several steps. If you seal or even varnish the laminated wood, apply one layer to one side, and not at once.
Starting with low grain, such as 150, stain the sand side and progressively to the final grinding, for example, 180 - 220. It is a good policy to grind with snippets when applying a stain, but it is not the best policy when applying stains.
When sanding on a flat surface, use the flat block to secure the sandpaper and advance to the next finer sandpaper. The most efficient way is to use one or more grains, which can be used to sand a little longer. Remove the sanding dust with the same sanding grain you used on the last sanding machine or with one of the three sanding methods.
Now that you have selected a random orbital sander to work with, it is time to select the right coarseness and grain of sandpaper to use on your wooden deck.
On the other hand, high grain paper does not remove as much and gives an ultra-smooth surface. The sandpaper is evaluated according to the number of grains of sandpaper, the grain size, and the thickness of the paper on the surface of your deck.
The recommendation for wood sanding is to start with coarse paper (80 grit) and to give the surface a smooth run. Machining the board with a planer or blunt knife requires, like veneer, coarse grit, but is a good choice for a smooth, smooth surface, not rough.
You can finish the surface with 180 grits, for example, but it would be a total waste of time and energy to start with grit that is too coarse and risk grinding from scratch. While you can start with a planer or blunt knife on a coarse paper (grit 80), you should not do this too early, otherwise, you run the risk of plywood cutting saw the whole board, not just a small part of it or even the edges.
They usually use fine-grain sandpaper and strive to achieve a smooth wood surface, with the aim of looking good when applying the paint or topcoat. You should find that when you repaint the wood, it will cause some of the grain to be lifted, as will wood that has previously been sanded with primer.
Sanding without primer ensures that the surface is vibrant and not blunt when applying the topcoat while sanding after primer ensures that the surface does not blur when applying the topcoat.
If you decide to sand and paint for the last time, you can achieve a smoother, more even layer with fine-grained sandpaper and even smoother layers.
The sanding of the first coat of paint brings to light the irregularities and inconsistencies of the roller brush. I use 220-grain sandpaper and attach the paper to the sander conveyor belt and pass it extremely easily over the surface. Do not put pressure on the sander other than the weight itself and do not put pressure on it if it is not weighed down by any other weight.
Now that you have selected the right type of sand for your specific task, it is time to choose the right grit. Many craftsmen start with a coarse grit (60) because they clean rough surfaces quickly. You can start with the rough grays and work your way up to the fine grin to reach the final.
Then you walk through the stages with a coarse grain (60) and then with a fine gray grain (50) until you are cleaned to a fine grin.
When sanding plywood, it is important to treat the surface like a veneered layer and to avoid abrasion with an orbital sander. You can sand the surfaces, in this case, try to paint the edges before you scatter sand to fill the paint and blend into the face of the vector. Then stop using the machine and finish the sanding by sanding the grain with 120 - 150 grit. With your machine, you smooth the grains and then use them again with a fine grinder (grain size 60 - 100) or fine grain size 50.