Be sure to sand and fill the ends of the board, as the boards are often rough and most plywood boards have cavities. Remember that the wood filler you use will shrink when used. In this case, you should sand each layer with 120-grain sandpaper before applying the second layer on a smooth, even surface.
This also allows you to fill the ends of the grain to create a smooth surface for painting. Dry construction sludge is particularly suitable as a surface filler if you use C or D construction plywood and want a smoother surface. Skim the entire surface with a wide drywall blade (10 - 12 '' ') while trying to finish the drywall.
Let the sludge dry completely and then sand it with 120-grain sandpaper with a 1 / 4 '' wide drywall knife (10 - 12 '' ').
If you need a coat, especially in bad areas, apply it and let it dry before sanding it again. Wipe dust and sand with 120-grain sandpaper with a 1 / 4 '' wide drywall blade (10 - 12 '').
Apply a few layers of polyacrylic (matt or glossy) as desired, but any painting project needs protection, especially if you use satin flat paint. Seal, varnish, and sand the primer with the plywood grout.
When you get the shine you want, you get sanded a lot, so use an 80s sanding pad to sanding the sides of the plywood cutting saw and the edges.
If you put the sandpaper back with your hands, this can lead to a soft, earlywood grain that hollows out most of the wood. So wipe it clean with a cloth and then take the time to try the iron veneer.
Sand blunt, sand the folded sandpaper and turn it over to use the second third, then fold the piece lengthwise over the third and fold it with the third third third. Use your hands to support the sanding, as the hollowing out is more prominent in the reflected light when applying the finish. One of my favorite methods for handmade sanding is to tear a sheet of 9 / 11 sandpaper in one-third of the way and fold it over. Then fold each piece lengthwise over each third, turn it over, use the third third third, and repeat the exercise.
Now that you have selected your random orbital sander to work with, it is time to select the right coarseness and grain of sandpaper to use on your wooden deck.
On the other hand, high grain paper does not remove as much and gives an ultra-smooth surface. Sandpaper is evaluated according to the number of grains of sandpaper, the amount of grit, and the coarseness of the surface on which it is ground.
The recommendation for wood sanding is to start with coarse paper (80 grit) and to give the surface a smooth run. Working on the board with a planer or blunt knife requires coarse grit, such as veneer, but it is the most effective method for super-flat coverings.
For example, you can process the surface with 180 grits and start with a coarse paper (grit 80) or coarse sandpaper (grit 100). You don't want to use too much grit, because otherwise you run the risk of sanding scratches and it would be a total waste of time and energy. You can also start on a higher grain size, such as 200 or 300 grains; you can even start in the middle of the board to ensure a smooth run.
For example, from 180 - 220 to the final sanding, a coarse paper (grit 100) or coarse sandpaper (grit 100) is used. If you are applying a stain, it is a good policy to sand it with sandpaper before applying.
When sanding on a flat surface, use flat blocks to secure the sandpaper and advance to the next finer sandpaper. Remove the sanding dust by using the same sanding grain used in the last machine sanding. The most efficient way is to use one or more grains, which can be used to sand a little longer.
All three sandbag methods are used, but you can use any of them at any time of day or night, as long as it is not too hot.
You don't have to sand the finish of something like raw wood, you just have to roughen it up a bit and make sure it's out.
If you need to use a fine sanding sponge, you should be aware of what is important when sanding a piece before painting the material. If you have painted the piece before, you may want to smooth or roughly paint some of this old paint.
Anything but grit leaves the wood with old paint in lines that you will see in the final finish. Oil, oil varnish, and mixed finishes have a measurable structure due to the roughness of the wood, which is caused by the rough sanding that runs through the surface. The look and feel of the finish are unique and have nothing to do with how finely you sanded it, if at all.