This simple trick can give a nice finish to the plywood, and I have already talked about how to paint MDF and get smooth edges. If you build with clear wood, you would probably use edge banding technology, but due to the thickness, you cannot.
After plywood cutting saw the plywood pieces, the first step is to sand the sides of the plywood as well as the edges. It will be sanded a lot to get the shine you want, so use sandpaper with 80% grain and a pad that will be sanded to 80% sand. I grind with a 120 grit sandpaper, but you can also grind on a 60 grit or even 100 grit pad if you want.
Next, sanding the top edge where it meets the plywood with a sanding block, and then the bottom edge of the veneer. I wipe the wood clean with a cloth, then it is time to try the iron on it.
There is actually a bit of a rounded edge that you could get if you don't look for it, which I didn't feel at all that it could peel off. If this is the case, you can sand the edge to the top edge to knock out the increased grain. On the bottom, where you have left the excess thickness of the veneer, I use a sanding block to sanding it pretty much over the entire surface of my tabletop.
Once the plywood edge is pitted, a wooden filler is enough and I use plastic putty or a knife to smooth it out. Once the wood fillers have dried, a light sanding should be sufficient to smooth the edges of the plywood.
The last option to complete the plywood edge is to apply a thin strip of self-adhesive veneer, called edge-banding material. This product can be easily used with domestic iron and is available in a variety of wood species that harmonize with plywood. By smoothly filling and sanding the joint, it becomes a decent way to cover the edge of the plywood!
You can get an inexpensive iron that you should keep in the store so that the excess glue does not ruin your clothes.
When sanding plywood, it is important to treat the surface with a veneered layer and to avoid the sander falling off. In this case, I tried to paint the edge of the sand and fill in the color that blends with the face and face of the viewer. Brush the grains (120 - 150 grains) of the sandpaper over the edges of the ground surface and finish the work. You can sand up to 2.5 mm (1 / 4 inch) on each surface at the same time and sand as much as possible on that surface.
Brush the edges by hand, then adjust the machine and use it to smooth the grains, and then adjust them.
It is important to treat the surface like a veneered layer and avoid the grinding bears. When sanding the plywood, smooth the grains with the machine, then stop using them and finish sanding by passing through the grain size with 120 - 150 grains. In some cases, try to brush the edges before sanding them and then fill them after sanding to blend the paint into the face of the veneer. You can grind it through or you have to use a machine, but in any case, you try to paint the edge when applying sand.
This is also a good way to remove the spine marks left by the orbital sander, which may only occur when the finish is applied.
It is tempting to take a piece of sandpaper and sand it off without using a support block, but this often removes the ground grain from the stock faster than it goes through the grain. If you get into a situation where you can't help sanding the grains, such as at the joint where the two parts meet at right angles, try an orbital sander with a back block instead of the back of a block and a sander.
If the sandpaper on the wood surface is not completely flat, an uneven surface may develop. This can also occur if you do not lay it perfectly on top, for example on the edge of a piece of plywood.
High-grain sandpaper can also be used for an even smoother surface, but cannot be used for plywood. The sanding with a back and forth movement and the sanding in back and forth movements works well and is well supported by the high grain of the wood.
Working on the board with a planing or blunt knife, as is the case with veneer, requires a coarse grain, but it is good for the edge of the plywood and not for any other surface. Before you sand the gasket, you need a dust-free and clean area, such as the top of a plate, the edges of the plates, or even the surface of your plate itself.